Rishikesh

Where ever I've been the past few weeks, I has never far from the Ganges river. The Ganges flows quickly here, the water level rising and falling throughout the day. When I first showed up the river was bright blue, brisk and beautiful. I squat on rocks by the river and filter it to drink . If bathing in and drinking the water are purifying, I can only imagine how I'll be when I start rafting.

Rishikesh styles itself as a centre for yoga and spirituality seekers. As much guidance as you are searching for, you can find it here. The experience that you find depends on what you are hoping to learn. Most of the visitors moving through are Indian pilgrims, who come to the area for spiritual guidance and teaching. They come through in family groups, women dressed in ornate, colourful saris carrying food. The men wear buttoned shirts, khaki pants and western jackets. The local men wear traditional loin clothes and head wraps.

Groups of Sadus (holy men) live along the beach and squat in abandoned buildings. Their orange clothes decorate the shore and they lie, finding shade throughout the day. Some Sadus are holy men and live simple, nomadic lives. They count on the universe to take care of them. I must be look like a white gift from the universe as they regularly ask me for money when I pass. Many Sadus sell drugs and for generations, orange cloths have been used to disguise criminals and people hiding from police.

Westerners who come to Rishikesh for spirituality are easy to spot as they walk down the street. Often with large dreaded hair or shaved heads, they parade a style of loose fitting, patched clothing. Some dress in orange cloth, indicative of Sadus or monks. They are the type that come to ashrams for a specific guru or teacher. At speeches from these gurus, I've heard topics ranging from love to the necessity of separating from former friends and family. At these gatherings, you can see people burst in tears and line up to kiss the feet of the guru. I was talking with a Indian-Canadian who expressed frustration with some of the spirituality seekers. Her analogies compared people travelling Canada and taking up Christianity on a whim. These people would buy clothes covered in crosses and memorize the songs about Jesus we know from childhood.

There are backpackers who come through to stay in the tranquil setting along the Ganga river. It is peaceful by Indian standards and the green hills foot hills of the Himalayas dominate the landscape. From on top these foot hills, you can see the big snow-capped mountains towering on the horizon distance.

I came here to slow down, live a healthy lifestyle and wait for the rafting season to start. I stay away from almost all of the spiritual teaching here. However Hinduism is connected to all aspects of life here. The Ayruvedic cooking, reiki, yoga, daily rituals and even the river which flows through the city are connected to Shiva and Ganesha. It's all encompassing in many ways and I recognize it as a culture that is not my own.

I have no interest in adopting the teachings of a guru, though it's interesting to meet people who are.

I've settled easily into a relaxed existence which centres around yoga and long meals in a scattering of vegetarian restaurants. My body is changing to suit this new environment. My torso shrinks, my legs bend in new ways and my lungs feel healthy and full. I've found what I was hoping for along the river here, amongst the ashrams, restaurants, stores, ghats, sadus and cows. It is simple, healthy and admittedly aimless. With no looming stress or decisions, it is easy to enjoy and be content in the day to day.